The Other Dolomites

The Dolomites are a premier ski destination. Many Brits pilgrimage there in winter. The Sella Ronda, a roundtrip on skis that can be done in a few hours, takes Alpine skiers through the most amazing mountain formations in Europe – the pink sheer walls of the Dolomites. The most luxurious ski huts in Europe line many hundred kilometres of ski pistes. The Dolomiti Superski ski pass, valid for 450 lifts, gives access to allegedly 1,200km of slopes that are always groomed to perfection, even when snow is not forthcoming. This is all truly impressing. Yet I’d argue that rushing to Corvara, Groeden or Arabba on the SS49 without paying attention to the untouched beauty of the many tiny family ski resorts en route and the truly majestic mountains to the left and right of the Pustertal Valley is perhaps a mistake. Kurt Walde, my mountain guide in Italy’s Alto Adige and Trento regions for many years, hails from Brunico, or Bruneck as the German-speaking locals call it. It is a pretty, medieval town complete with a castle fortress and 14thcentury defence walls. It sports a major ski resort, Kronplatz, a few minutes away by car. It is also endowed with some of the best restaurants in Alto Adige. Gashof Schoeneck, Albergo Oberauz, Lerchner’s In Runggen and B.local are worth … Continue Reading