From the slender tongue of land I was standing on, one could see Norway’s Lyngen Alps twice. Their granite rock and icescape first rising needle-sharp into a translucent, chintz-blue sky. And then again: the 80km-long peninsula of rugged peaks, glaciers and frozen waterfalls perfectly mirrored in the deep, calm waters of the fjord, a row of immaculately drawn lozenges. From the south, a lone trawler came chug-chugging over the unperturbed surface of the sound, the colour ofbarrel steel. Gulls were shrieking faintly in the distance, and meltwater dripped from wooden racks on the beach used long ago to dry cod in warming spring winds: a picture of utter peace…Continue Reading